The North Coast of Koh Phi Phi is the long, green arm of the island that runs north from the viewpoints to the tip at Laem Tong, with a string of beaches and coves along both sides: Loh Bagao (also written Loh Ba Kao) and Pak Nam on the east, Loh Lana on the west, Rantee further south on the east coast, and Laem Tong at the northern end, facing Bamboo Island. There is no road and no village on this coast except the small community of Ban Laem Tong: each beach has one or a few resorts with their own restaurants, and the way in is by boat. It is Koh Phi Phi at its most relaxed, with long white beaches, clear water and none of the crowds or the noise of Tonsai.
On this site the North Coast zone groups all the properties north and east of the viewpoints, from Rantee to Laem Tong. Together they account for the island's highest-rated and most upscale stays, including its only five-star resorts.
Who should stay on the North Coast?
The North Coast is for couples, honeymooners and families who want a beach resort and intend to stay there: a room steps from the sand, a pool, a restaurant, snorkelling from the beach and quiet evenings. It suits travellers who have come for rest rather than nightlife, and those who want to visit Bamboo Island early, before the day boats arrive. Several resorts here organise their own boat transfers from Phuket or from Tonsai pier, which makes the arrival simpler than it sounds.
It does not suit travellers on a tight budget, people who want to eat in a different place every night, or anyone who wants to move around the island a lot. Every trip to the village is a boat ride, priced per boat or per person, and after dark the choice is the resort restaurant. There are no ATMs anywhere on the North Coast, so bring enough cash from Tonsai for tips, boats and extras, or check which resorts accept cards.
The beaches of the North Coast
Laem Tong (Laem Thong) is a nearly 1 km white-sand beach at the northern tip, secluded and calm, with a handful of resorts and, at its northern end, Ban Laem Tong, a village of the Urak Lawoi sea people, with a few local restaurants. It is the closest point to Bamboo Island, 15 to 30 minutes by long-tail.
Loh Bagao is a long bay on the east side, with white sand and palms, larger than Tonsai Bay but home to only a few resorts, including the island's biggest five-star estate; it is tidal, less inviting for swimming at low tide. Loh Lana, on the west side, is a quiet bay with fishing huts and no accommodation of its own.
Pak Nam (Phak Nam), south of Loh Bagao on the east coast, is a small bay with clear water and coral, where the resort sets the tone: rustic, peaceful and reached only by boat or a long jungle walk. Rantee, further south, is a tiny cove with excellent snorkelling and a single resort.
Resorts on the North Coast
The 13 properties listed in this zone are almost all resorts, with a couple of hotels and a guesthouse, and they have the highest average guest score on the island. At the top end are the five-star and four-star resorts of Laem Tong and Loh Bagao: villas and suites with sea views, private pools in some categories, several restaurants, spas and water-sports centres, at roughly 5,000 THB a night in the low season to well above 10,000 THB at Christmas and New Year. Mid-range resorts, bungalows in gardens behind the beach or on the hillside, charge about 2,000 to 5,000 THB, and the simpler bungalows of Pak Nam and Rantee sit at the lower end of that range. Transfers are extra: each listing states which beach the property is on, whether it runs its own boat from Tonsai or from Phuket, and whether rooms are on the sand or up the hill.
How do you get to the North Coast?
By boat. Every public ferry lands at Tonsai pier; from there, a long-tail to Laem Tong costs about 250 THB per person on the scheduled boat, or around 1,500 THB for a private boat for up to eight people, and takes about 45 minutes. A private long-tail to Loh Bagao costs about 600 to 1,000 THB per boat. Rantee has a scheduled boat twice a day for about 250 THB per person, or a private boat for 1,000 THB and more. Most resorts arrange the transfer when you book, and it is the simplest option.
Some ferry and speedboat services from Phuket and Krabi continue to Laem Tong or transfer passengers there, landing on the beach rather than at a pier, and some resorts run their own boats from marinas in Phuket. Boats do not run after dark except by private arrangement, and on rough days in the monsoon season even the short hops can be cancelled.
On foot, jungle trails link the viewpoints with Loh Bagao, Pak Nam and Rantee in one to one and a half hours, and Laem Tong with Loh Bagao in about 40 minutes; they are steep, rough and unlit, and not for luggage.
What is there to do on the North Coast?
The beach, first: swimming and snorkelling from the sand at Laem Tong, Pak Nam and Rantee, kayaks and paddle-boats from the resorts, and long, quiet evenings. Bamboo Island, with its white sand and reef, is 15 to 30 minutes away by long-tail from Laem Tong, compared with 40 to 60 minutes from Tonsai, and an early boat beats the tours from Phuket; the national park fee of 400 THB per adult applies, paid in cash. The larger resorts have dive centres, tennis, spas and cooking classes; the smaller ones rent snorkel gear and kayaks.
Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Viking Cave on Phi Phi Leh are reached by boat trips that the resorts arrange or that leave from Tonsai; Maya Bay closes every year from 1 August to 30 September. The village, with its restaurants, bars and fire shows, is a boat ride away, and most North Coast guests visit it once or twice rather than every evening.
When to stay on the North Coast
The dry season, from December to April, is the North Coast at its best: calm seas for the boat transfers, clear water for snorkelling and long sunny days on empty beaches; January and February are the driest months. Prices peak at Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year, and the five-star resorts sell out early. From May to October the south-west monsoon brings showers and rougher seas; the resorts stay open and cut their rates, often substantially, but boat transfers can be delayed or cancelled, so keep a buffer day before a flight.
